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Thread: Maximum Motorsports IRS Cobra Stainless Braided Rear Brake Lines

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    Maximum Motorsports IRS Cobra Stainless Braided Rear Brake Lines

    Stainless brake hoses are always a solid braking upgrade. The braided stainless lines do not expand under pressure like the rubber OEM hoses, which provide all around better performance.

    Most people start with the Front lines as the front does the most braking, however the Rear is not something that should be overlooked. Maximum Motorsports sells a complete kit for the Rear of the 1999-2004 IRS Cobras that is well built and easy to install: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1223



    (only one side shown)



    The only special tools needed for this is a Flare Nut Wrench and a Torque Wrench capable of 14 ft-lbs. The instructions stated a 12mm Flare Nut, but I found my car used a 13mm:



    These pictures show the Driver Side being replaced. The Instructions from MM state to start on the Passenger Side first, which I did. These Photos can easily be reversed as the install is the same side to side. This is just a run through of the process, always refer to the manufacturer's instructions.



    Disconnect the Hard Line from the Rubber Hose with the Flare Nut Wrench:




    MM Provides a handy rubber cap to place over the Hard Line while working. This prevents excess spillage and contamination of the line:




    Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the brake line bracket in place (top right corner of the bracket):




    Unbolt the Brake Hose Bracket on the Upper Control Arm and remove (not shown)



    Fish the line under the Upper Control Arm while trying to keep it pointed upright to prevent excess spillage. Unbolt the banjo bolt from the rear of the brake line:




    Hose Removed:




    The replacement hose bracket from MM:




    The end of the new hose has a groove for a retainer clip to hold it in place:






    Push the clip onto the groove, with the tab facing down and to the outside of the bracket:





    Mount the new Bracket and Hose in place of the OEM piece using the same 10mm bolt:




    Route the new MM line under the Upper Control Arm and to the rear of the Brake Caliper.



    The hose connection for the caliper itself uses a banjo bolt and 2 copper crush washers. Install the banjo bolt onto the caliper finger tight for now, with a copper washer on each side of the hose:





    Clip the new MM Control Arm bracket onto the forward portion of the arm as shown:




    The new hose has a rubber insulated hose mount pre-installed. Place the new bolt with a washer underneath through the top of the UCA bracket. Place the hose mount onto the bracket and use a bolt and a washer underneath to tighten it up:





    Hose installed:




    Check final clearances and torque the banjo bolt on the caliper to 14 ft-lbs. No more, no less. This bolt needs to SEAL the brakeline and can also easily be snapped.






    The Final Step is to BLEED YOUR BRAKES. Air will definitely get into the lines doing this swap, and possibly some other crud. It is critical to properly bleed both rear lines at MINIMUM.



    All in all the installation is pretty straightforward. It can probably be done in 30 minutes not counting the bleeding, but take your time and double check everything. Also, make sure you use the proper Torque Wrench for the new banjo bolts. I've snapped a few of those in my day trying to guesstimate the torque.

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    Senior GearHead Glenn_03Cobra's Avatar
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    Another nice how-to by Dr. Dogg!
    MMS SS lines are nicer than the SS lines put on my Cobra.
    I like the shielding support on each end.
    The brackets are a nice addition as well.

    Thanks Ron!

    "Get yer car outta the garage and Let's Go Cruising!"

    Horsepower for an Hour Automotive Talk Show on KVTA.com AM 1520 - Saturdays from 1:00 - 2:00pm Pacific Time
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    After a nice thorough bleeding of the Rear and Front calipers, the brakes now have a nice and firm pedal feel and feel very solid throughout the braking range. Very happy with the combo right now.

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    Senior Member blind's Avatar
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    in the process of installing these onto my `97, however the `97 uses a different hard line configuration (single line to the rear that T's off) so I'm stuck in a snag finding an M10-1 T block...

    1989 Mustang LX Coupe - ex 2.3/a4ld - 5.0/t5/5lug...etc
    1991 Mustang LX Convertible - 5.0/AOD
    1997 Mustang GT Coupe - 4.6/T45...DOHC 32v 282rwhp
    1996 Tahoe Sport 2dr 4x4 5.7L/4L60e...stock
    2002 F150 Harley-Davidson #09617 S/C 5.4L/4R100...hotchkis suspension, 4lb pulley, FTVB

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    Senior Member blind's Avatar
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    had to get pretty creative, and the adapter setup cost me almost $50 after shipping, but here we go-






    this would be 1000x easier to take care of in a foxbody, and a 99-04 GT these lines would drop right in, but the bastard 96-98 had a T in the passenger brake hose, so there you go, billet machined 10mm-1.0 CNC brake T adapter, 7 5/8" 10mm-1.0 to 10mm-1.0 hard line jumper, and 99-04 MM IRS SS braided brake hoses.

    Pressure bled with my motive brake bleeder, flushed in all new fluid while I was at it.

    never want to touch them again! Well other than my yearly brake fluid flush.

    1989 Mustang LX Coupe - ex 2.3/a4ld - 5.0/t5/5lug...etc
    1991 Mustang LX Convertible - 5.0/AOD
    1997 Mustang GT Coupe - 4.6/T45...DOHC 32v 282rwhp
    1996 Tahoe Sport 2dr 4x4 5.7L/4L60e...stock
    2002 F150 Harley-Davidson #09617 S/C 5.4L/4R100...hotchkis suspension, 4lb pulley, FTVB

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    Kickin' the Tires
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    That looks like a perfect project to add to my IRS swap! Does anyone know if these are DOT approved?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheriff41 View Post
    That looks like a perfect project to add to my IRS swap! Does anyone know if these are DOT approved?
    Yes they are DOT-approved.

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    Kickin' the Tires
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    Thanks for the reply and the detailed post. I noticed the DOT sticker in the pictures after I posted but I didn't see anything mentioned on the MM website.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheriff41 View Post
    Thanks for the reply and the detailed post. I noticed the DOT sticker in the pictures after I posted but I didn't see anything mentioned on the MM website.
    I went and looked on the site for you to verify, but ended up seeing it listed as DOT Approved in the PDF of the directions. I forgot since the install but wanted to be 100%.

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    Kickin' the Tires
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    Yep, I figured they would be--MM always has good stuff--and thanks for going to the extra effort. I hope my installation looks as clean as yours! I appreciate these threads with step-by-step photos.

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    Senior GearHead Glenn_03Cobra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheriff41 View Post
    That looks like a perfect project to add to my IRS swap! Does anyone know if these are DOT approved?
    Did you see Blind's IRS swap project post? -> http://www.westcoastgearheads.com/sh...with-the-stick

    "Get yer car outta the garage and Let's Go Cruising!"

    Horsepower for an Hour Automotive Talk Show on KVTA.com AM 1520 - Saturdays from 1:00 - 2:00pm Pacific Time
    Internet podcast -> Horsepower for an Hour



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    Kickin' the Tires
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glenn_03Cobra View Post
    Did you see Blind's IRS swap project post? -> http://www.westcoastgearheads.com/sh...with-the-stick
    Sure did Glenn. That's how I found this site--outstanding rundown of the process. I will try to add an article or two of my own as I get to some of my projects. I have teh IRS swap on the list, along with Cobra brake upgrade for my GT and a Kenne Bell supercharger install on my 95 Cobra.

  13. #13
    Senior Member blind's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheriff41 View Post
    Sure did Glenn. That's how I found this site--outstanding rundown of the process. I will try to add an article or two of my own as I get to some of my projects. I have teh IRS swap on the list, along with Cobra brake upgrade for my GT and a Kenne Bell supercharger install on my 95 Cobra.
    best of luck! It should be easier on the 99+ than my car, make sure you change at least the fuel filter while you're at it.

    Since I had to drop the tank to drill the vertical bracing holes for the IRS cradle brackets on my car, I replaced the fuel filler neck gasket and the fuel pump at the same time.

    1989 Mustang LX Coupe - ex 2.3/a4ld - 5.0/t5/5lug...etc
    1991 Mustang LX Convertible - 5.0/AOD
    1997 Mustang GT Coupe - 4.6/T45...DOHC 32v 282rwhp
    1996 Tahoe Sport 2dr 4x4 5.7L/4L60e...stock
    2002 F150 Harley-Davidson #09617 S/C 5.4L/4R100...hotchkis suspension, 4lb pulley, FTVB

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    Kickin' the Tires
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    Quote Originally Posted by blind View Post
    best of luck! It should be easier on the 99+ than my car, make sure you change at least the fuel filter while you're at it.

    Since I had to drop the tank to drill the vertical bracing holes for the IRS cradle brackets on my car, I replaced the fuel filler neck gasket and the fuel pump at the same time.
    Hah! Yep, I already have a fuel filter to go on. I picked up on that in your article and went back to look at some of the pictures--there is no way I want to change it after I have the IRS in place! Thanks for the noggins up!

    After reading all the positives on the FTB Delrin kit on here and some other forums I think I'm going to order the full kit before I install the IRS. I also need to order a yoke flange to mate the GT driveshaft to the IRS pinion flange.

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