Stainless brake hoses are always a solid braking upgrade. The braided stainless lines do not expand under pressure like the rubber OEM hoses, which provide all around better performance.
Most people start with the Front lines as the front does the most braking, however the Rear is not something that should be overlooked. Maximum Motorsports sells a complete kit for the Rear of the 1999-2004 IRS Cobras that is well built and easy to install: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1223
(only one side shown)
The only special tools needed for this is a Flare Nut Wrench and a Torque Wrench capable of 14 ft-lbs. The instructions stated a 12mm Flare Nut, but I found my car used a 13mm:
These pictures show the Driver Side being replaced. The Instructions from MM state to start on the Passenger Side first, which I did. These Photos can easily be reversed as the install is the same side to side. This is just a run through of the process, always refer to the manufacturer's instructions.
Disconnect the Hard Line from the Rubber Hose with the Flare Nut Wrench:
MM Provides a handy rubber cap to place over the Hard Line while working. This prevents excess spillage and contamination of the line:
Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the brake line bracket in place (top right corner of the bracket):
Unbolt the Brake Hose Bracket on the Upper Control Arm and remove (not shown)
Fish the line under the Upper Control Arm while trying to keep it pointed upright to prevent excess spillage. Unbolt the banjo bolt from the rear of the brake line:
Hose Removed:
The replacement hose bracket from MM:
The end of the new hose has a groove for a retainer clip to hold it in place:
Push the clip onto the groove, with the tab facing down and to the outside of the bracket:
Mount the new Bracket and Hose in place of the OEM piece using the same 10mm bolt:
Route the new MM line under the Upper Control Arm and to the rear of the Brake Caliper.
The hose connection for the caliper itself uses a banjo bolt and 2 copper crush washers. Install the banjo bolt onto the caliper finger tight for now, with a copper washer on each side of the hose:
Clip the new MM Control Arm bracket onto the forward portion of the arm as shown:
The new hose has a rubber insulated hose mount pre-installed. Place the new bolt with a washer underneath through the top of the UCA bracket. Place the hose mount onto the bracket and use a bolt and a washer underneath to tighten it up:
Hose installed:
Check final clearances and torque the banjo bolt on the caliper to 14 ft-lbs. No more, no less. This bolt needs to SEAL the brakeline and can also easily be snapped.
The Final Step is to BLEED YOUR BRAKES. Air will definitely get into the lines doing this swap, and possibly some other crud. It is critical to properly bleed both rear lines at MINIMUM.
All in all the installation is pretty straightforward. It can probably be done in 30 minutes not counting the bleeding, but take your time and double check everything. Also, make sure you use the proper Torque Wrench for the new banjo bolts. I've snapped a few of those in my day trying to guesstimate the torque.![]()























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